Active substance combination of licochalcone A and phenoxyethanol

ABSTRACT

A cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparation comprising licochalcone A and phenoxyethanol. This Abstract is not intended to define the invention disclosed in the specification, nor intended to limit the scope of the invention in any way.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

The present application is a divisional of U.S. application Ser. No.11/001,224, filed Dec. 2, 2004, which claims priority under 35 U.S.C.§119 of German Patent Application No. 103 56 164.1, filed Dec. 2, 2003.The disclosures of the parent U.S. application and the German priorityapplication are expressly incorporated by reference herein in theirentireties.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparationscontaining active substances for the care and protection of the skin, inparticular sensitive skin, as well as skin aged or aging throughintrinsic and/or extrinsic factors and the use of such active substancesand combinations of such substances in the field of cosmetic anddermatological skin care.

2. Discussion of Background Information

Cosmetic skin care is primarily understood as meaning that the naturalfunction of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g.dirt, chemicals, micro-organisms) and against the loss of substancesintrinsic to the body (e.g. water, natural fats, electrolytes) isstrengthened or restored. Impairment of this function may lead toincreased absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or to attack bymicroorganisms, resulting in toxic or allergic skin reactions.

For example, in the case of aged skin, a regenerative restoration occursslowly, whereby in particular the capacity of the horny layer of theepidermis to bind water diminishes. For this reason, the skin becomesinflexible, dry, and cracked (“physiologically” dry skin). Theconsequence is a barrier damage. The skin becomes susceptible tonegative environmental influences, such as the invasion ofmicroorganisms, toxins, and allergens, possibly resulting in even toxicor allergic skin reactions.

In the case of pathologically dry and sensitive skin, barrier damageexists a priori. Epidermal intercellular lipids become deficient ordevelop in an inadequate quantity or composition. The consequence is anincreased permeability of the horny layer and an inadequate protectionof the skin against loss of hygroscopic substances and water.

The barrier effect of the skin can be quantified by determining thetransepidermal water loss (TEWL). This process involves the evaporationof water from the interior of the body without including the loss ofwater during perspiration. The determination of the TEWL value hasproven to be extremely informative, and may be used for diagnosingcracked or chapped skin, for determining the compatibility of chemicallydifferently composed surfactants and the like.

For the beauty and well-cared appearance of the skin, the proportion ofwater in the uppermost skin layer is of greatest importance. It ispossible to influence the proportion of water favorably and to a limitedextent by introducing moisture regulators.

Anionic surfactants, which are in general ingredients of cleansingpreparations, are capable of increasing the pH value in the horny layerin a long-lasting manner, which greatly impedes regenerative processesthat serve to restore or renew the barrier function of the skin. In thisinstance, a new, often very unfavorable state of equilibrium develops inthe horny layer between regeneration and loss of essential substances asa result of regular extraction. This state of equilibrium decisivelyaffects the outer appearance of the skin and the physiologicalfunctioning of the horny layer.

A simple water bath alone without the addition of surfactants causes aninitial swelling of the horny layer of the skin, with the degree of thisswelling being dependent, e.g., on the duration of the bath and itstemperature. At the same time, not only water-soluble substances, forexample, water-soluble dirt particles, but also skin-inherentsubstances, which are responsible for the capacity of the horny layer tobind water, are rinsed off or washed away. In addition, skin-inherent,surface-active substances also cause skin fats to be separated andwashed away to a certain extent. After an initial swelling, this causesa subsequent, distinct drying of the skin, which may be increasedfurther by detergent additives.

In the case of healthy skin, these processes are in general irrelevant,since the protective mechanisms of the skin are easily capable ofcompensating for such slight disturbances of the upper layers of theskin. However, the protective mechanism of the skin surface becomesdisrupted already in the case of nonpathological deviations from thenormal state, for example, by environmentally caused damage from wear,or irritations, light damage, aged skin, etc. The protective mechanismof the skin may then possibly no longer be capable of fulfilling itsfunction, and needs to be regenerated by external measures.

Moreover, it is known that lipid composition and lipid quantity of thehorny layer of the pathologically altered, dry skin and of the dry butnot yet diseased skin of younger and older people deviate from thenormal condition which is found in the healthy, normally hydrated skinof a same age group. In this regard, changes in the lipid pattern of thevery dry, non-eczematous skin of patients with an atopic eczemarepresent an extreme case of the deviations which are found in the dryskin of people with healthy skin.

In addition to cholesterol, these deviations relate quite particularlyto ceramides which are greatly reduced in their quantity and, inaddition, differently composed. In this regard, the deficit of ceramides1 and 3 is particularly striking, it being known in particular in thecase of ceramide 1 that it increases in a special way the order of thelipids in the intercellular membrane systems.

Disadvantageous changes in the lipid membranes of the kind describedabove are possibly based on a dysregulated lipid biosynthesis, andultimately they likewise increase the transepidermal water loss. Along-lasting barrier weakness in turn makes skin that is per se healthy,more sensitive, and in individual cases may contribute to thedevelopment of eczematous processes in the diseased skin.

The effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydrationof the horny layer does not normally comprise a restoration orstrengthening of the physico-chemical properties of the lamellae fromintercellular lipids. A substantial partial effect is based on the merecovering of the treated skin regions and on the resultant watercollection in the subjacent horny layer. Co-applied hygroscopicsubstances bind the water, so that a measurable increase of the watercontent in the horny layer develops. However, it is relatively easy toremove this merely physical barrier again. After the product isdiscontinued, the skin will return very rapidly to its condition beforethe start of the treatment. Moreover, the effect of skin care in thecase of a regular treatment may subside, so that finally the status quois again reached even during treatment. In the case of certain products,after their use is discontinued, the condition of the skin deteriorates,possibly temporarily. Thus, a long-lasting effect of the product is notnormally achieved, or achieved only to a limited extent.

To assist the deficient skin in its natural regeneration, and tostrengthen its physiological function, it has recently become more andmore common to add topical preparations to the mixtures of intercellularlipids, which are to be used by the skin for rebuilding its naturalbarrier. However, these lipids, in particular the ceramides, are veryexpensive raw materials that are difficult to formulate. In addition,their effect is mostly much smaller than hoped for.

It is desirable to find ways of avoiding the disadvantages of the priorart. In particular, it is would be advantageous for the effect of skincare products to be physiological, fast, and long-lasting.

Skin care as intended by the present invention includes primarily thatthe natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmentalinfluences (for example, dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and againstthe loss of endogenous substances (for example, water, lipids,electrolytes) is strengthened or restored.

Products for the care, treatment, and cleansing of dry and stressed skinare known per se. However, their contribution to the regeneration of aphysiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer is limited interms of scope and time.

The action of ointments and creams on the barrier function and thehydration of the horny layer is based substantially on the coverage(occlusion) of the treated skin regions. The ointment or creamrepresents as it were a (second) artificial barrier, which is intendedto prevent a loss of water by the skin. Accordingly, this physicalbarrier is again easy to remove—for example, with cleansing agents—sothat the original, impaired condition is reestablished. Moreover, theeffect of the skin care may subside in the case of a regular treatment.After the product application is discontinued, the skin returns againvery quickly to its condition before the start of the treatment. In thecase of certain products, the condition of the skin sometimes evendeteriorates temporarily. Thus, a long-lasting effect of the product isnot achieved, or only achieved to a limited extent.

The effect of some pharmaceutical preparations on the barrier functionof the skin even comprises a selective barrier damage, which is intendedto make it possible for active substances to penetrate into the skin orthrough the skin into the body. In this regard, an impaired appearanceof the skin as a side effect is partially accepted.

The effect of skin care cleansing products comprises in essence anefficient regreasing with sebum lipid-like substances. As a result ofsimultaneously reducing the surfactant content of such preparations, itis possible to further limit the damage to the horny layer barrier.

However, in the prior art there is a lack of preparations whichpositively influence the barrier function and the hydration of the hornylayer, and strengthen or even restore the physico-chemical properties ofthe horny layer and in particular of the lamellae of intercellularlipids.

It would be advantageous to eliminate the disadvantages of the priorart. In particular, it would be advantageous to have availablepreparations for skin care and preparations for cleansing the skin whichmaintain or restore the barrier properties of the skin, particularlywhen the natural regeneration of the skin is insufficient. Furthermore,these preparations should be suitable for the treatment and prophylaxisof secondary damage from the drying out of the skin, for example,fissures or inflammatory or allergic processes, or even neurodermatitis.It also is desirable to have available stable, skin care cosmetic and/ordermatological agents, which protect the skin against environmentalinfluences, such as sun and wind. In particular, it is desired that theeffect of the preparation be physiological, fast, and long-lasting.

The present invention furthermore relates to preparations with extremelylow so-called “stinging potential.” A neurosensory phenomenon called“stinging” (sting=injure, burn, hurt) can be observed in people withsensitive, susceptible or vulnerable skin. This “sensitive skin” differsin principle from “dry skin” with thickened and hardened horny layers.

Typical reactions of “stinging” on sensitive skin are reddening,tightening and burning of the skin and itching.

Itching of atopic skin and itching with skin diseases are to be regardedas neurosensory phenomena.

“Stinging” phenomena can be regarded as disturbances that can be treatedcosmetically. Severe itching, on the other hand, especially severeitching of the skin which occurs with atopy, can also be described as amore serious dermatological disorder.

Typical troublesome neurosensory phenomena associated with the terms“stinging” or “sensitive skin” are reddening of the skin, tingling,prickling, tightening and burning of the skin and itching. Thesephenomena can be caused by stimulating environmental conditions, forexample massage, action of surfactants, the influence of weather, suchas sun, cold, dryness, and also damp heat, radiant heat and UVradiation, for example from the sun.

In “Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists” 28, pages 197-209 (May1977), the entire disclosure whereof is incorporated by referenceherein, P. J. Frosch and A. M. Kligman describe a method for estimatingthe “stinging potential” of topically administered substances. Lacticacid and pyruvic acid, for example, are employed as positives in thismethod. During measurement by this method, however, amino acids, inparticular glycine, were also identified as substances which exert aneurosensory action (such substances are called “stingers”).

According to knowledge to date, such sensitivity towards quite specificsubstances occurs differently in individuals. This means that a personthat experiences “stinging effects” on contact with a substance willwith a high probability experience it repeatedly on any further contact.However, contact with other “stingers” can just as easily proceedwithout any reaction.

The problem of sensitive skin affects a growing number of adults andchildren. Sensitive skin describes a combination of different symptoms,such as hyperreactive and intolerant skin. Atopic skin can also beincluded under this term. These skin conditions are often referred to bythose affected, not quite correctly, as “allergic” skin. Although anallergic disorder can result in symptoms of sensitive skin, the“sensitive skin” phenomenon is not limited to allergy sufferers.

Many more or less sensitive people also suffer erythematous skinsymptoms on using some deodorant or antiperspirant preparations.

Erythematous skin symptoms also occur as concomitant symptoms withcertain skin diseases or irregularities. The typical skin rash with theclinical picture of acne, for example, is regularly reddened to agreater or lesser degree.

It would be advantageous to have available active substances andpreparations comprising such active substances for the cosmetic anddermatological treatment and/or prophylaxis of erythematous,inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune-reactive symptoms, in particulardermatoses, and also the clinical picture of “stinging”.

It would also be advantageous to have available active substances andpreparations comprising such active substances which can be used for theimmuno-stimulation of the skin, and here advantageously also forimmuno-stimulation in the context of an action that promotes woundhealing.

The present invention relates, inter alia, to cosmetic anddermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment ofcosmetic or dermatological skin alterations, such as, e.g., undesirablepigmentation, e.g., local hyperpigmentation and abnormal pigmentation(e.g., moles, freckles), but also for the purely cosmetic lightening oflarger skin areas that are per se appropriately pigmented for theindividual skin type.

Pigmentation of the skin is due to melanocytes, which are found in thebottom layer of the epidermis, the basal stratum, next to the basalcells, which—depending on skin type—are present as pigment-forming cellseither individually or in relatively large numbers. Melanocytes containmelanosomes as characteristic cell organelles, which produce moremelanin when stimulated by UV radiation. The melanin is transported intothe keratinocytes and causes more or less pronounced brownish or brownskin coloring.

Melanin is formed as the final stage in an oxidation process, in whichtyrosine, with the aid of the enzyme tyrosinase, is converted to melaninvia 3,4-dihydroxyphenyl alanine (dopa), dopa-quinone, leucodopachrome,dopachrome, 5,6-dihydroxyindol and indole-5,6-quinone.

Problems with hyperpigmentation of the skin have various causes and/orare side effects of many biological processes, e.g., UV radiation (e.g.freckles, ephelides), genetic disposition, defective pigmentation of theskin and/or scarring during the healing of wounds, or skin aging (e.g.lentigines seniles).

Active substances and preparations are known which counteract skinpigmentation. Those in practical use, in addition to8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid, are essentially preparations basedon hydroquinone, which however on the one hand only begin to show aneffect after several weeks of use while on the other hand their use overa very long period is not always safe for toxicological reasons. Theinhibition of tyrosinase with substances such as koji acid, ascorbicacid, azelaic acid and their derivatives is also common, but exhibitscosmetic and dermatological disadvantages.

Another goal of skin care is to compensate for the loss by the skin ofsebum and water caused by daily washing. This is particularly importantif the natural regeneration ability is inadequate. Furthermore, skincare products should protect against environmental influences, inparticular against sun and wind, and delay skin aging.

Chronological skin aging is caused, for example, by endogenous,genetically determined factors. The following structural damage andfunctional disorders, which can also fall under the term “senilexerosis”, result, for example, in the epidermis and dermis as a resultof aging:

-   -   a) dryness, roughness and formation of dryness wrinkles;    -   b) itching; and    -   c) reduced regreasing by sebaceous glands (e.g. after washing).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical noxae, can have acumulative effect and, for example, accelerate or supplement theendogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, for example,the following structural damage and functional disorders appear in theskin as a result of exogenous factors; these go beyond the extent andquality of the damage in the case of chronological aging:

-   -   d) visible vascular dilation (telangiectases, couperosis);    -   e) flaccidity and formation of wrinkles;    -   f) local hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation and abnormal        pigmentation (e.g. age spots); and    -   g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g.        cracking).

The present invention also relates to products for the care of naturallyaged skin, and to the treatment of the damage caused by photoaging, inparticular of the phenomena listed under a) through g).

Products for the care of aged skin are known per se. They contain, forexample, niacinamide, retinoids (vitamin A acid and/or derivativesthereof) or vitamin A and/or derivatives thereof. The extent of theireffect on structural damage is, however, limited. Furthermore, inproduct development there are considerable difficulties in stabilizingthe active ingredients to an adequate extent against oxidative decay.The use of products comprising vitamin A acid, moreover, often causessevere erythematous skin irritations. Retinoids can therefore only beused in low concentrations.

The present invention also relates to cosmetic preparations whichprovide effective protection against harmful oxidation processes in theskin, and also for the protection of cosmetic preparations themselves orthe protection of the constituents of cosmetic preparations againstharmful oxidation processes.

The present invention further relates to antioxidants, preferably thoseused in cosmetic or dermatological skin care preparations. Inparticular, the present invention also relates to cosmetic anddermatological preparations that comprise such antioxidants. In apreferred aspect, the present invention relates to cosmetic anddermatological preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment ofcosmetic and dermatological skin changes, such as, for example, skinaging, in particular skin aging caused by oxidative processes.

Furthermore, the present invention relates to active substances andpreparations comprising such active substances for the cosmetic anddermatological treatment or prophylaxis of erythematous, inflammatory,allergic or autoimmune-reactive symptoms, in particular dermatoses.

In a further advantageous aspect, the present invention relates toactive ingredient combinations and preparations which serve for theprophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular ofphotodermatoses.

The harmful effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on theskin is generally known. Whereas rays with a wavelength of less thanabout 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) are absorbed by the ozone layerin the earth's atmosphere, rays in the range between about 290 nm andabout 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, cause erythema, simple sunburn oreven burns of greater or lesser severity. A maximum erythema activity ofsunlight is indicated to occur within the relatively narrow range around308 nm.

Numerous compounds are known for protecting against UVB radiation; theseare derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, of 4-aminobenzoic acid, ofcinnamic acid, of salicylic acid, of benzophenone and also of2-phenylbenzimidazole.

It is also desirable to have available filter substances for the rangebetween about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, sincethe corresponding rays can cause reactions in cases of photosensitiveskin. It has been found that UVA radiation results in damage of theelastic and collagenous fibers of connective tissue, which leads topremature aging of the skin, and is to be regarded as a cause ofnumerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions. The harmful effect ofUVB radiation can be intensified by UVA radiation.

To protect against rays of the UVA range, certain derivatives ofdibenzoylmethane are therefore used. However, the photostability ofthese derivatives is inadequate (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988),the entire disclosure whereof is incorporated by reference herein).

UV radiation can, however, also lead to photochemical reactions, inwhich case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skinmetabolism.

Such photochemical reaction products are predominantly free radicalcompounds, for example hydroxyl radicals and singlet oxygen. Undefinedfree radical photoproducts which form in the skin itself can alsodisplay uncontrolled secondary reactions because of their highreactivity. However, singlet oxygen, a non-free radical excited state ofthe oxygen molecule, can also be formed during UV irradiation, as canshort-lived epoxides and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example,differs from normal triplet oxygen (free radical ground state) by virtueof its increased reactivity. However, excited, reactive (free radical)triplet states of the oxygen molecule also exist.

UV radiation is also a type of ionizing radiation. There is thereforethe risk that ionic species will also form during UV exposure, which fortheir part are able to interfere oxidatively with the biochemicalprocesses.

In order to prevent these reactions, additional antioxidants and/or freeradical scavengers can be incorporated into cosmetic or dermatologicalformulations.

It has already been proposed to use vitamin E, a substance with knownantioxidant action, in sunscreen formulations, although, here too, theeffect achieved falls far short of expectations.

It is desirable to be able to provide cosmetically, dermatologically andpharmaceutically active substances and preparations, and sunscreenformulations which serve for the prophylaxis and treatment ofphotosensitive skin, in particular photodermatoses, preferably PLD.

Other names for polymorphous light dermatosis are PLD, PLE, Mallorcaacne and a large number of other names, as given in the literature (e.g.A. Voelckel et al, Zentralblatt Haut- und Geschlechtskrankheiten (1989),156, p. 2, the entire disclosure whereof is incorporated by referenceherein).

Antioxidants are mainly used as substances which protect against thedeterioration of the preparations in which they are present.Nevertheless, it is known that in human or animal skin undesiredoxidation processes may occur as well. Such processes play an importantrole in skin aging.

The article “Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury” in“Oxidative Stress in Dermatology”, p. 323 ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., NewYork, Basel, Hong Kong, Editor: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and LesterPacker, Berkeley/Calif.), the entire disclosure whereof is incorporatedby reference herein, discusses oxidative skin damage and its more directcauses.

Also for the reason of preventing such reactions, antioxidants and/orfree radical scavengers can be additionally incorporated into cosmeticor dermatological formulations.

A number of antioxidants and free radical scavengers are known. Forexample U.S. Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861, the entire disclosureswhereof are incorporated by reference herein, and numerous otherdocuments have already proposed the use of vitamin E, a substance withknown antioxidant activity in sunscreen formulations, although here,too, the effect achieved falls far short of the desired effect.

The anti-inflammatory effect of licochalcone A is known per se. Toobtain this effect in topical formulations, however, the solubility oflicochalcone A in the vehicle and a sufficient dermal bioavailabilityare important prerequisites. However, licochalcone A is a poorly solublesubstance which can crystallize during storage and processing. Thiscrystallization tendency is a great problem, since substance crystalscan lead to an uncosmetic appearance, formula instabilities and/or lossof effectiveness.

It is therefore desirable to increase the solubility of licochalcone Aand thus its biological availability.

It would be advantageous to find ways of avoiding the disadvantages ofthe prior art. In particular, the effect of eliminating the damageassociated with the endogenous, chronological and exogenous aging of theskin and the prophylaxis should be lasting, sustained and without therisk of side effects.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides an active substance combinationcomprising

-   -   a. licochalcone A and/or an extract of radix glycyrrhizae        inflatae that comprises licochalcone A,    -   b. phenoxyethanol, and    -   c. optionally, glycerin.

In one aspect of the active substance combination the weight ratio(A:B:C) is a:b:c, where a, b and c independently of one another mayrepresent rational numbers of from about 0.001 to about 200, e.g.,rational numbers of up to about 10, and

-   -   A represents licochalcone A    -   B represents phenoxyethanol    -   C represents glycerin.

In another aspect, the weight ratio (B+C)/(A*100) may be from about 0.1to about 5,000, e.g., from about 0.5 to about 1,000, or from about 1 toabout 1,000.

The present invention also provides a cosmetic or dermatologicalpreparation which comprises an effective amount of the active substanceof the present invention, including the various aspects thereof as setforth above.

In one aspect, the preparation may comprise from about 0.0005% to about50% by weight, e.g., from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight of theactive substance combination, based on the total weight of thepreparation.

In another aspect, the preparation may comprise from about 0.0001% toabout 5% by weight, e.g., from about 0.001% to about 1% by weight, orfrom about 0.005% to about 0.5% by weight of licochalcone A, based onthe total weight of the preparation.

In yet another aspect, the preparation may comprise from about 0.001% toabout 5% by weight, e.g., from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight, orfrom about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight of phenoxyethanol, based on thetotal weight of the preparation.

In a still further aspect, the preparation may comprise from about0.001% to about 30% by weight, e.g., from about 0.01% to about 15% byweight, or from about 1% to about 8% by weight of glycerin, based on thetotal weight of the preparation.

In a still further aspect, the preparation may further comprise fromabout 0.001% to about 20% by weight, e.g., from about 0.01% to about 10%by weight, or from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight of one or morepolyols, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The present invention further provides a cosmetic or dermatologicalpreparation which comprises from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight,based on the total weight of the preparation, of an active substancecombination comprising

-   -   (a) licochalcone A and/or an extract of radix glycyrrhizae        inflatae that comprises licochalcone A,    -   (b) phenoxyethanol, and    -   (c) optionally, glycerin.

In one aspect of the preparation, the weight ratio (A:B:C) is a:b:c,where a, b and c independently of one another may represent rationalnumbers of from about 0.001 to about 10, and

-   -   A represents licochalcone A    -   B represents phenoxyethanol    -   C represents glycerin.

In another aspect, the weight ratio (B+C)/(A*100) may be from about 0.1to about 1,000.

In yet another aspect, the preparation may comprise from about 0.001% toabout 1% by weight, e.g., from about 0.005% to about 0.5% by weight oflicochalcone A.

In a still further aspect, the preparation may comprise from about 0.01%to about 2% by weight, e.g., from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight ofphenoxyethanol, based on the total weight of the preparation.

In a still further aspect, the preparation may comprise from about0.001% to about 30% by weight, e.g., from about 0.01% to about 15% byweight, or from about 1% to about 8% by weight of glycerin, based on thetotal weight of the preparation.

In another aspect, the preparation may further comprise from about0.001% to about 20% by weight, e.g, from about 0.01% to about 10% byweight, or from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight of one or morepolyols, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The present invention also provides an emulsion which comprises thepreparation of the present invention, including the various aspectsthereof as set forth above.

The present invention also provides a method for the prophylaxis ortreatment of inflammatory skin conditions and a method for protectingdry and sensitive skin. These methods comprise applying to at least apart of the skin the preparation of the present invention, including thevarious aspects thereof as set forth above.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the presentinvention are thoroughly satisfactory in every respect. It was notforeseeable to one of skill in the art that the preparations would leadto increased solubility and thus biological availability of licochalconeA and that the preparations would

-   -   better maintain or reestablish the barrier properties of the        skin    -   better counteract drying out of the skin    -   better act against dyschromia    -   better act against inflammatory skin conditions    -   better calm sensitive skin    -   better alleviate reddening of the skin    -   better act against skin aging and    -   better protect the skin from environmental influences        than the preparations of the prior art.

The use of active substance combinations according to the invention orcosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effectivecontent of active substance combinations according to the inventionsurprisingly provides not only an effective treatment, but also aprophylaxis of

-   -   deficient, sensitive, or hypoactive skin conditions or        deficient, sensitive, or hypoactive conditions of skin        appendages,    -   phenomena of premature aging of the skin (for example, wrinkles,        age spots, teleangiectases) and/or of skin appendages,    -   environmentally caused changes (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen        species, free radicals) and in particular light-induced,        negative alterations of the skin and skin appendages,    -   light-induced skin damage,    -   pigmentation disorders,    -   sensitive, irritated and itching skin,    -   dry skin conditions and barrier disorders of the horny layer,    -   hair loss and for improved hair growth,    -   inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopical eczema,        seborrheic eczema; polymorphous light dermatosis, psoriasis, and        vitiligo.

The use of active substance combinations according to the invention orcosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective amountof active substance combinations according to the invention, however,also surprisingly serves

-   -   to calm sensitive or irritated skin,    -   to stimulate the synthesis of collagen, hyaluronic acid and        elastin,    -   the improved interlocking of epidermis and dermis and thus the        improved elasticity and firmness of the skin    -   to stimulate the ceramide synthesis of the skin    -   to stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, in particular in cases        of deficient or hypoactive skin conditions,    -   to increase cell renewal and regeneration of the skin,    -   to increase the skin's own protective and repair mechanisms (for        example, for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins),    -   for pre- and post-treatment in cases of topical application of        laser and abrasive treatments, which serve, for example, to        reduce skin wrinkles and scars, to counteract the resulting skin        irritations and to promote the regeneration processes in the        damaged skin.

The plant species glycyrrhiza inflata, like the licorice glycyrrhizaglabra officinal in Europe, belongs to the genus glycyrrhiza thatbelongs to the fabaceae (pea plants) plant family. The drug radixglycyrrhizae inflatae, i.e., the root of the plant, is, e.g., common ineastern medicine. The use of the drug as an anti-inflammatory agent islikewise known.

One constituent of the extract of radix glycyrrhizae inflatae islicochalcone A, which is characterized by the following structuralformula:

It is assumed that this substance, possibly in synergy with the otherconstituents of the extract, plays a part in the effect according to theinvention.

Phenoxyethanol is characterized by the chemical structure

Phenoxyethanol is a viscous liquid with a light, slightly pleasant scentand an astringent taste. Phenoxyethanol is found in nature, inter alia,in tropical fruit, in cichorium endiva and in green tea (camelliasinesis). It has a mild, rose-like scent and is also used as a fixativefor perfume compositions. It is miscible with acetone, ethyl alcohol andglycerin and is soluble in water and fats, e.g., olive oil and peanutoil.

Phenoxyethanol is effective above all in acidic and neutral, as well asin an alkaline media and is completely non-toxic. It provides sufficientprotection already in low concentrations. Due to its good tolerabilitytogether with its excellent effectiveness it was quickly adopted in thepharmaceutical and cosmetic industry.

The use of glycerin in cosmetics is generally known. Glycerinmoisturizes and smoothes the skin and is a constituent of many skin carecosmetic preparations.

According to the invention it is desirable to use glycerin.Advantageously, the preparations of the present invention contains atleast about 0.001%, e.g., at least about 0.01%, at least about 0.1%, orat least about 1% by weight, but preferably not more than about 30%,e.g., not more than about 15%, or not more than about 8% by weight ofglycerin, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Advantageously, a preparation according to the invention will contain atleast about 0.001%, e.g., at least about 0.01%, or at least about 0.1 byweight, but preferably not more than about 2%, e.g., not more than about1%, not more than about 0.6%, or not more than about 0.5% by weight ofphenoxyethanol, based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention, it is advantageous for a preparation tocontain at least about 0.0001%, e.g., at least about 0.001%, at leastabout 0.005%, or at least about 0.01%, but not more than about 5%, e.g.,not more than about 1%, or not more than about 0.5% by weight oflicochalcone A, based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention, it is further advantageous for thepreparation to contain from about 0.001% to about 20% by weight, e.g.,from about 0.01% to about 10% by weight, from about 0.05% to about 5% byweight, or from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of one or more polyols,based on the total weight of the preparation.

Non-limiting examples of polyols which are suitable for the purposes ofthe invention include glycerin, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,propylene glycol, pentanediol, and hexanediol.

It may furthermore be advantageous for the preparations according to thepresent invention to contain licochalcone in the form of a constituentof a plant extract, in particular of an extract of radix glycyrrhizaeinflatae.

In this regard, it may be advantageous for the cosmetic ordermatological preparations according to the invention to contain fromabout 0.0001% to about 10% by weight, in particular from about 0.005% toabout 5% by weight, very particularly from about 0.01% to about 1% byweight of an extract of radix glycyrrhizae inflatae, based on the totalweight of the preparation.

It may be particularly advantageous to start from an extract that issold by Maruzen Co., Ltd., Japan, under the name Polyol Soluble LicoriceExtract P-U.

Furthermore, it may also be advantageous to use licochalcone A in othervehicle systems, e.g., in a concentration of from about 0.0001% to about5% by weight, in particular from about 0.001% to about 1% by weight,very particularly from about 0.003% to about 0.05% by weight.

It has proven to be very advantageous if the preparation according tothe invention exhibits the following weight ratios: (A:B:C) is selectedas a:b:c, where a, b, and c represent independently of one anotherpositive rational numbers of from about 0.001 to about 200, preferablyfrom about 0.001 to about 10, and A, B and C represent licochalcone A,phenoxyethanol and glycerin, respectively.

Furthermore, it has proven to be advantageous to select the quotient(B+C)/100*Awhere A, B and C are as defined above, from the range of from about 0.01to about 5,000, preferably from the range of from about 0.1 to about1,000.

The active substance combinations according to the present invention areused in cosmetic or dermatological compositions in concentrations ofpreferably at least about 0.0005%, e.g., at least about 0.01% andpreferably not more than about to about 50%, e.g., not more than about20% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The use of active substance combinations according to the invention forthe prophylaxis and treatment of inflammatory skin conditions—includingatopic eczema—and/or for the protection of the skin in the case of dryskin determined to be sensitive is also within the scope of the presentinvention.

The use of active substance combinations according to the invention forthe production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for thetreatment and/or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders is also withinthe scope of the present invention.

The use of active substance combinations according to the invention forthe production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for thetreatment and/or prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and/orextrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of theharmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin is also within thescope of the present invention.

The use of active substance combinations according to the invention forthe production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations which increaseceramide biosynthesis is also within the scope of the present invention.

The use of active substance combinations according to the invention forthe production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations whichstrengthen the barrier function of the skin is also within the scope ofthe present invention.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the inventionpreferably contain from about 0.0001% to about 10% by weight,particularly preferably from about 0.001% to about 1% by weight, ofactive substance combination according to the present invention, basedon the total weight of the preparations.

According to the invention, it is in particular advantageous to useactive substance combinations or cosmetic or topical dermatologicalpreparations with an effective content of active substance combinationsaccording to the invention for the cosmetic or dermatological treatmentand/or prophylaxis of undesirable skin conditions.

According to the invention, antioxidants may be present in preparationswhich contain active substance combinations according to the invention.

The antioxidants may advantageously be chosen from amino acids (forexample glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and derivativesthereof, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof,peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine andderivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (forexample α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof,lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (for example, dihydrolipoic acid),aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example,thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and the glycosyl,N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl,oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and saltsthereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate,thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides,lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulphoximine compounds(for example buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulphoximine,buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa- and heptathionine sulphoximines) invery low tolerated doses (for example pmol to μmol/kg), and furthermore(metal) chelating agents (for example α-hydroxy-fatty acids, palmiticacid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (for example citricacid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts,bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturatedfatty acids and derivatives thereof (for example γ-linolenic acid,linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof,ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C andderivatives (for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate,ascorbyl acetate), vitamin B and derivatives (e.g., niacinamide),tocopherols and derivatives (for example vitamin E acetate), vitamin Aand derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoinresin, rutic acid and derivatives thereof, ferulic acid and derivativesthereof, propyl gallate, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylatedhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiac resin acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid,trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose andderivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO,ZnSO₄), selenium and derivatives thereof (for example seleniummethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbeneoxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives of these activesubstances mentioned which are suitable according to the invention(salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides andlipids).

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in thepreparations is preferably from about 0.001% to about 30% by weight,e.g., from about 0.05% to about 10% by weight, in particular from about0.1% to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparations.

The prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with theactive substance combination according to the invention or with thecosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effectivecontent of active substance combination according to the invention takesplace in the customary manner, such that the active substancecombination according to the invention or the cosmetic or topicaldermatological preparations with an effective content of the activesubstance combination according to the invention is applied to theaffected areas of the skin.

The active substance combination according to the invention can beadvantageously incorporated into customary cosmetic and dermatologicalpreparations which can be present in various forms. Thus, they can, forexample, be present in the form of a solution, an emulsion of thewater-in-oil (W/O) type or of the oil-in-water (O/W) type, or in theform of a multiple emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water(W/O/W) type, or the oil-in-water-in-oil (O/W/O) type, as ahydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid stick, or also as anaerosol.

For the purposes of the present invention, emulsions, e.g., in the formof a cream, a lotion, a foam, a cosmetic milk, are advantageous andcontain, for example, fats, oils, waxes and/or other fatty substances,and also water and one or more emulsifiers, as is customarily used forthis type of formulation.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the presentinvention, to incorporate the active substance combination according tothe invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations forcleansing the skin and hair.

Of course, one of skill in the art will be aware that sophisticatedcosmetic preparations are usually inconceivable without the customaryauxiliaries and additives. The cosmetic preparations according to theinvention may therefore contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are customarilyused in such preparations, e.g., preservatives, bactericides,deodorants, antiperspirants, insect repellants, vitamins, antifoams,dyes, coloring pigments, thickeners, emollients, moisturizers and/orhumectants, fats, oils, waxes and/or other customary constituents of acosmetic preparation, such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foamstabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents and silicone derivatives.

Corresponding comments apply mutatis mutandis to the formulation ofmedicinal preparations.

Medicinal topical compositions for the purposes of the present inventiongenerally comprise one or more medicaments in an effectiveconcentration. For the sake of simplicity, for a clear distinctionbetween cosmetic and medicinal application and corresponding products,reference is made to the legal provisions of the Federal Republic ofGermany (e.g., Cosmetics Directive, Foods and Drugs Act).

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously also containsubstances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amountof the filter substances being, for example, from about 0.1% by weightto about 30% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10% byweight, in particular from about 1.0% to 6.0% by weight, based on thetotal weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmeticpreparations which protect the hair or the skin from the entire range ofultraviolet radiation. They can also be used as sunscreen for the hair.

Advantageous UVA filter substances for the purposes of the presentinvention include dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular4-(tert-butyl)-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which issold by Givaudan under the trademark Parsol® 1789 and by Merck under thetrademark Eusolex® 9020.

Non-limiting examples of further advantageous UVA filter substancesinclude hydroxybenzophenones which are characterized by the followingstructural formula:

where

-   -   R¹ and R², independently of one another, are hydrogen,        C₁-C₂₀-alkyl, C₃-C₁₀-cycloalkyl or C₃-C₁₀-cycloalkenyl, where        the substituents R¹ and R², together with the nitrogen atom to        which they are bonded, can form a 5-membered or 6-membered ring        and    -   R³ is a C₁-C₂₀-alkyl radical.

A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone for the purposes of thepresent invention is hexyl 2-(4′-diethylamino-2′-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate(also: aminobenzophenone), which is characterized by the followingstructure:

and is available under the trade name Uvinul A Plus from BASF.

The total amount of one or more hydroxybenzophenones in the finishedcosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected fromthe range of from about 0.01% by weight to about 20% by weight,preferably from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight, each based on thetotal weight of the preparations.

Non-limiting examples of advantageous further UV filter substances inthe context of the present invention include sulfonated, water-solubleUV filters, such as, e.g.,

-   -   phenylene-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3′-5,5′-tetrasulfonic acid        and its salts, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium        or triethanolammonium salts, in particular        phenylene-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3′-5,5′-tetrasulfonic acid        bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate (CAS No.:        180898-37-7), which is available, for example, under the trade        name Neo Heliopan AP from Haarmann & Reimer;    -   salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its        sodium, potassium and triethanolammonium salts, and the sulfonic        acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid        (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the        trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or under the trade name Neo        Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann & Reimer;    -   1,4-di(2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl)-benzene (also:        3,3′-(1,4-phenylenedimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1        ]hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and salts thereof (in        particular the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular        the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt),        which is also known as        benzene-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid).        Benzene-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl-10-sulfonic acid) has        the INCI name terephthalidene dicamphor sulfonic acid (CAS No.:        90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name        Mexoryl SX from Chimex;    -   sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, such as,        e.g., 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulfonic acid,        2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl)-sulfonic acid and salts        thereof.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the context of the presentinvention are furthermore so-called broad-band filters, i.e., filtersubstances which absorb both UVA and UVB radiation.

Advantageous broad-band filters or UVB filter substances include, forexample, triazine derivatives, such as e.g.

-   -   2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine        (INCI: aniso triazine), which is available under the trade name        Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH;    -   Diethylhexylbutylamidotriazone (INCI:        diethylhexylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the        trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;    -   tris(2-ethylhexyl)        4,4′,4″-(1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino)-tris-benzoate,        also:        2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine        (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is sold by BASF        Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150.

Another advantageous broad-band filter for the purposes of the presentinvention is2,2′-methylene-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol)which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M fromCIBA-Chemikalien GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the presentinvention is2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(tri-methylsilyl)oxy]-disiloxanyl]propyl]-phenol(CAS No.: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name drometrizole trisiloxane,which is available under the trade name Mexoryl® XL from Chimex.

The further UV filter substances may be oil-soluble or water-soluble.Advantageous oil-soluble UVB and/or broad-band filter substances for thepurposes of the present invention include, e.g.:

-   -   3-benzylidenecamphor derivatives, preferably        3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, 3-benzylidenecamphor;    -   4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2-ethylhexyl)        4-(dimethylamino)-benzoate, amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate;    -   derivatives of benzophenone, preferably        2-hydroxy4-methoxybenzophenone,        2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone,        2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzo-phenone;    -   UV filters bound to polymers;    -   3-(4-(2,2-bisethoxycarbonylvinyl)-phenoxy)propenyl)-methoxysiloxane/-dimethylsiloxane        copolymer, which is available, e.g., under the trade name        Parsol® SLX from Hoffmann La Roche.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances include, e.g., sulfonicacid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, such as, e.g.,4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulfonic acid,2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

A further light-protection filter substance which may advantageously beused according to the invention isethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which isavailable from BASF under the name Uvinul®. N 539.

Particularly advantageous preparations for the purposes of the presentinvention which are characterized by a high or very high UVA and/or UVBprotection furthermore preferably comprise, in addition to the filtersubstance(s) according to the invention, further UVA and/or broad-bandfilters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example,4-(tert-butyl)-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane],phenylene-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3′-5,5′-tetrasulfonic acid andsalts thereof, 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl)-benzene and/orsalts thereof and/or2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine,in each case individually or in any desired combinations with oneanother.

The above list of UV filters which can be employed for the purposes ofthe present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.

The preparations according to the invention may advantageously comprisethe substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVA and/or UVB range ina total amount of, e.g., from about 0.1% by weight to about 30% byweight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, in particularfrom about 1.0% to about 15.0% by weight, in each case based on thetotal weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmeticpreparations which protect the hair or the skin from the entire range ofultraviolet radiation. They can also be used as sunscreens for the hair.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention mayadvantageously also contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxidesand/or other metal compounds which are poorly soluble or insoluble inwater, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO₂), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g.,Fe₂O₃), zirconium (ZrO₂), silicon (SiO₂), manganese (e.g., MnO),aluminum (Al₂O₃), cerium (e.g., Ce₂O₃), mixed oxides of thecorresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. Particularly preferredpigments include those based on TiO₂.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularlyadvantageous, although not mandatory, for the inorganic pigments to bepresent in hydrophobic form, i.e., to have been treated on the surfaceto become water-repellent. This surface treatment may involve providingthe pigments with a thin hydrophobic layer by processes known per se.

One such process involves, for example, producing the hydrophobicsurface layer in accordance with a reaction according ton TiO₂+m(RO)₃Si—R′→n TiO₂ (surf.)Here, n and m are desired stoichiometric parameters, R and R′ are thedesired organic radicals. For example, hydrophobicized pigments preparedin accordance with DE-OS 33 14 742, the entire disclosure whereof isincorporated by reference herein, are advantageous.

Advantageous TiO₂ pigments are also available, for example, under thetrade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 fromDegussa.

In particular when crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example,inorganic micropigments are to be included in the preparations of thepresent invention, the preparations may also contain anionic, nonionic,and/or amphoteric surfactants. Surfactants are amphophilic substanceswhich are capable of dissolving organic, nonpolar substances in water.

The hydrophilic moieties of a surfactant molecule are in most casespolar functional groups, for example —COO⁻, —OSO₃ ⁻, —SO₃ ⁻, whereas thehydrophobic parts normally represent nonpolar hydrocarbon residues. Ingeneral, surfactants are classified according to the type and charge ofthe hydrophilic portion of the molecule. In this regard, it is possibleto distinguish between four groups:

-   -   anionic surfactants;    -   cationic surfactants;    -   amphoteric surfactants; and    -   nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants normally comprise carboxylate, sulfate, or sulfonategroups as functional groups. In an aqueous solution, they formnegatively charged, organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment.Cationic surfactants are characterized nearly exclusively by thepresence of quaternary ammonium groups. In an aqueous solution, theyform positively charged, organic ions in an acidic or neutralenvironment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationicgroups, and accordingly in an aqueous solution act as anionic orcationic surfactants depending on the pH value. In a strongly acidicenvironment, they exhibit a positive charge, and in an alkalineenvironment they exhibit a negative charge. In the neutral pH range,however, they are zwitterionic, as demonstrated by the followingexample:

-   RNH₂ ⁺CH₂CH₂COOH X⁻ (at pH=2) X⁻=any desired anion, e.g., Cl⁻¹ RNH₂    ⁺CH₂CH₂COO⁻ (at pH=7) RNHCH₂CH₂COO⁻ B⁺ (at pH=12) B⁺=any desired    cation, e.g., Na⁺

Typical of nonionic surfactants are polyether chains. Nonionicsurfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.

A. Anionic Surfactants

Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants that may advantageously beused for the purposes of the present invention include Acylamino acids(and salts thereof), such as:

-   -   1. Acyl glutamate, for example, sodium acyl glutamate,        di-TEA-palmitoyl aspartate, and sodium caprylic/capric        glutamate;    -   2. Acylpeptides, for example, palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein,        sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein, and sodium/potassium        cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen;    -   3. Sarcosinates, for example, myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl        sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and sodium cocoyl        sarcosinate;    -   4. Taurates, for example, sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium        methylcocoyl taurate;    -   5. Acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate    -   6. Alaninates.        Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as:    -   1. Carboxylic acids, for example, lauric acid, aluminum        stearate, magnesium alkanolate, and zinc undecylenate;    -   2. Ester carboxylic acids, for example, calcium stearoyl        lactylate, laureth-6 citrate, and sodium PEG-4 lauramide        carboxylate;    -   3. Ether carboxylic acids, for example, sodium laureth-13        carboxylate, and sodium PEG-6 cocoamide carboxylate        Esters of phosphoric acid and salts, such as, for example,        DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphate,        Sulfonic acids and salts, such as:    -   1. Acyl isethionate, for example, sodium-ammoniumcocoyl        isethionate;    -   2. Alkyaryl sulfonates;    -   3. Alkyl sulfonates, for example, sodium coco monoglyceride        sulfate, sodium C₁₂₋₁₄ olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl        sulfoacetate, and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate;    -   4. Sulfosuccinates, for example, dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate,        disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate,        and disodium undecylenamido-MEA-sulfosuccinate; and        Esters of sulfuric acid, such as:    -   1. Alkyl ether sulfates, for example, sodium, ammonium,        magnesium, MIPA, TIPA, laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate,        and sodium C₁₂₋₁₃ pareth sulfate; and    -   2. Alkyl sulfates, for example, sodium, ammonium, and TEA-lauryl        sulfate.        B. Cationic Surfactants

Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants that may advantageously beused include

-   -   1. Alkylamines,    -   2. Alkylimidazoles,    -   3. Ethoxylated amines, and    -   4. Quaternary surfactants    -   5. Esterquats.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one nitrogen atom, which iscovalently bonded to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Irrespective of the pHvalue, this results in a positive charge. Advantageous are alkylbetaine,alkylamidopropylbetaine, and alkylamidopropyl-hydroxysulfaine. Thecationic surfactants that may be used in accordance with the inventioncan also be selected from quaternary ammonium compounds, in particularbenzyltrialkyl ammoniumchlorides or bromides, such as, for example,benzyldimethylstearyl ammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example, cetyltrimethyl ammonium chloride orbromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethyl ammonium chloride or bromide,dialkyldimethyl ammonium chloride or bromide, alkylamideethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, forexample, lauryl or cetyl pyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivativesand compounds having cationic character, such as amine oxides, forexample, alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyl dimethylamineoxides. The use of cetyltrimethyl ammonium salts is particularlyadvantageous.

C. Amphoteric Surfactants

Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants that may advantageouslybe used include

-   -   1. Acyl-/dialkyl ethylenediamine, for example, sodium acyl        amphoacetate, disodiumacyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl        amphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropyl sulfonate,        disodium acyl amphodiacetate, and sodium acyl amphopropionate;    -   2. N-alkylamino acids, for example, aminopropyl alkylglutamide,        alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and        lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.        D. Nonionic Surfactants

Non-limiting examples of nonionic surfactants which may advantageouslybe used include

-   -   1. Alcohols;    -   2. Alkanolamides, such as MEA/DEA/MIPA cocoamides;    -   3. Amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide;    -   4. Esters, which result from the esterification of carboxylic        acids with ethylene oxide, glycerin, sorbitan, or other        alcohols;    -   5. Ethers, for example, ethoxylated/propoxylated alcohols,        ethoxylated/propoxylated esters, ethoxylated/propoxylated        glycerol esters, ethoxylated/propoxylated cholesterols,        ethoxylated/propoxylated triglyceride esters,        ethoxylated/-propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated/propoxylated        polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE-ethers, and alkyl        polyglycosides, such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and        coco glycoside;    -   6. Sucrose esters, sucrose ethers;    -   7. Polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters;    -   8. Methylglucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids.

It may also be advantageous to use a combination of anionic and/oramphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

In the preparations according to the invention, the surface-activesubstance may, for example, be present in a concentration of from about1% to about 95% by weight, based on the total weight of thepreparations.

The lipid phase of cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to theinvention may advantageously be selected from the following group ofsubstances:

-   -   mineral oils, mineral waxes;    -   oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acids, dialkyl        ether and dialkyl carbonates, such as, e.g., dicaprylyl ether or        dicaprylyl carbonate; furthermore natural oils, such as, e.g.,        castor oil;    -   fats, waxes, and other natural and synthetic lipoids, preferably        esters of fatty acids with alcohols having a low carbon number,        e.g., with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters        of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of a low carbon number or        with fatty acids;    -   alkylbenzoates;    -   silicone oils, such as dimethylpolysiloxanes,        diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes, as well as mixed        forms thereof.

Advantageously, the oil phase of the emulsions of the present inventionmay further be selected from esters of saturated and/or unsaturated,branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain lengthof from 3 to about 30 carbon atoms and saturated and/or unsaturated,branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of from 3 toabout 30 carbon atoms; from esters of aromatic carboxylic acids andsaturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols havinga chain length of from 3 to about 30 carbon atoms. By way ofnon-limiting example, such ester oils may advantageously be selectedfrom isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate,isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate,isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate,2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate,2-octyidodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate,erucyl erucate, as well as synthetic, semisynthetic, and naturalmixtures of such esters, for example, jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase may advantageously be selected from branchedand unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes, silicone oils,dialkyl ethers, saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranchedalcohols, as well as fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerolesters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranchedalkane carboxylic acids having a chain length of from about 8 to about24, in particular from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acidtriglycerides may advantageously be selected, for example, fromsynthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example, olive oil,sunflower seed oil, soy oil, peanut oil, rape oil, almond oil, palm oil,coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components may also be usedadvantageously for the purposes of the present invention. In someinstances, it may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example, cetylpalmitate, as the only lipid component of the oil phase.

Advantageously, the oil phase may also be selected from 2-ethylhexylstearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane,2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C₁₂₋₁₅-alkyl benzoate, triglycerides ofcaprylic/capric acid, dicaprylyl ether and dicaprylyl carbonate.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C₁₂₋₁₅ alkyl benzoate and2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C₁₂₋₁₅ alkyl benzoate andisotridecyl isononanoate, as well as mixtures of C₁₂₋₁₅ alkyl benzoate,2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Non-limiting examples of hydrocarbons that may advantageously be usedfor the purposes of the invention include paraffin oil, squalane andsqualene.

The oil phase may advantageously also contain cyclic and/or linearsilicone oils, or be composed entirely of such oils, although it ispreferable to use an additional content of other oil phase componentsapart from the silicone oil(s). Such silicones or silicone oils may bein the form of monomers, which are generally characterized by thefollowing structural elements:

Linear silicones having two or more siloxyl units, which may be usedadvantageously according to the present invention, are generallycharacterized by the following structural elements:

where the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or differentalkyl radicals and/or aryl radicals, which are shown here in generalterms by the radicals R₁—R₄ (that is to say the number of differentradicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). m will usually assumevalues of from about 2 to about 200,000.

Cyclic silicones which may be used advantageously according to theinvention are generally characterized by the following structuralelements:

where the silicon atoms can be substituted with identical or differentalkyl radicals and/or aryl radicals, which are shown here in generalterms by the radicals R₁—R₄ (that is to say the number of differentradicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). n will usually assumevalues of from 3/2 to about 20. Fractions for n take into considerationthe fact that uneven numbers of siloxyl groups may be present in thering.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (e.g., decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) maybe used as the silicone oil for use in the present invention. However,other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes ofthe present invention, for example, undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane,polydimethylsiloxane, poly(methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, andbehenoxydimethicone.

Also advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecylisononanoate, and mixtures of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexylisostearate.

It may, however, also be advantageous to select silicone oils of similarconstitution to the above-described compounds whose organic side chainsare derivatized, for example, polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated.These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers,such as cetyl-dimethicone copolyol, and (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol(and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate).

Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone andisotridecyl isononanoate, and of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexylisostearate.

Advantageously, the aqueous phase of the preparations according to theinvention may optionally comprise alcohols, diols or polyols of lowcarbon number, and ethers thereof, preferably ethanol, isopropanol,propylene glycol, glycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, ethylene glycol,ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycolmonomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethylor monoethyl ether and analogous products, and also, in particular, oneor more thickeners which can advantageously be chosen from silicondioxide and aluminum silicates.

Preparations according to the invention which are present in the form ofemulsions may advantageously comprise, in particular, one or morehydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids may advantageously be chosen fromgums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates,polyacrylates and/or other polymers.

Preparations according to the invention which are present in the form ofhydrogels may contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydorcolloids mayadvantageously be selected, for example, from the above-mentioned groupof thickeners.

The gums include saps from plants or trees which harden in the air andform resins, and extracts from aquatic plants. From this group, gumarabic, carob flour, tragacanth, karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum,carrageen, agar, algins, chondrus, xanthan gum may, for example, bechosen advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Also advantageous is the use of derivatized gums, such as, for example,hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Non-limiting examples of suitable polysaccharides and polysaccharidederivatives include hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitinsulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Suitable cellulose derivatives include, for example, methylcellulose,carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, andhydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

The phyllosilicates include naturally occurring and synthetic clays,such as, for example, montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite,magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum®. These can be used as suchor in modified form, such as, for example, stearylalkonium hectorites.

In addition, silica gels can also be used advantageously for thepurposes of the present invention.

The polyacrylates include, for example, Carbopol grades from Goodrich(Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

The polymers include, for example, polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305),polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP/VA copolymers, polyglycols, andammoniumpolyacryloyldimethyltaurates andammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/-vinylpyrrolidone copolymers.

Preparations according to the invention in the form of emulsions maycomprise one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers may advantageouslybe chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric emulsifiers.

Non-limiting examples of nonionic emulsifiers include

-   -   a) partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric        alcohols and ethoxylated derivatives thereof (e.g., glyceryl        monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates,        sucrose stearates),    -   b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids,    -   c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid        alkanolamides,    -   d) alkylphenol polyglycol ethers (e.g., Triton X).

Non-limiting examples of anionic emulsifiers include

-   -   a) soaps (e.g., sodium stearate),    -   b) fatty alcohol sulfates,    -   c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphoric esters and ethoxylates        thereof.

Non-limiting examples of cationic emulsifiers include

-   -   a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic        radical, e.g., distearyidiammonium chloride

Non-limiting examples of amphoteric emulsifiers include

-   -   a) alkylaminoalkanecarboxylic acids,    -   b) betaines, sulfobetaines    -   c) imidazoline derivatives

In addition, there are naturally occurring emulsifiers, which includebeeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols.

Non-limiting examples of advantageous O/W emulsifiers includepolyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated andpolypropoxylated products, for example:

-   -   fatty alcohol ethoxylates;    -   ethoxylated wool wax alcohols;    -   polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula        R—O—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—R′;    -   fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula        R—COO—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—H;    -   etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula        R—COO—(—CH₂—CH₂—O)_(n)—R′;    -   esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula        R—COO—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—C(O)—R′;    -   fatty acid esters of polyethyleneglycol glycerin;    -   ethoxylated sorbitan esters;    -   cholesterol ethoxylates;    -   ethoxylated triglycerides    -   alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula        R—O—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—CH₂—COOH where n is a number of from about        5 to about 30;    -   fatty acid esters of polyoxyethylene sorbitol;    -   alkylether sulfates of the general formula        R—O—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—SO₃—H;    -   fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula        R—O—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—H;    -   polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula        R—O—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—R′;    -   propoxylated wool wax alcohols;    -   etherified fatty acid propoxylates        R—COO—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—R′;    -   esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula        R—COO—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—C(O)—R′;    -   fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula        R—COO—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—H;    -   fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycolglycerin    -   propoxylated sorbitan esters;    -   cholesterol propoxylates    -   propoxylated triglycerides;    -   alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula        R—O—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—CH₂—COOH;    -   alkylether sulfates or the parent acids of these sulfates of the        general formula R—O—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—SO₃—H;    -   fatty alcohol ethoxylates/propoxylates of the general formula        R—O—X_(n)—Y_(m)—H;    -   polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula        R—O—X_(n)—Y_(m)—R′;    -   etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula        R—COO—X_(n)—Y_(m)—R′;    -   fatty acid ethoxylates/propoxylates of the general formula        R—COO—X_(n)—Y_(m)—H.

If the ONV emulsifiers comprise saturated radicals R and R′ it isparticularly advantageous to select the polyethoxylated orpolypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated ONV emulsifiersfrom substances with HLB values of from about 11 to about 18, e.g., fromabout 14.5 to about 15.5. If the O/W emulsifiers comprise unsaturatedradicals R and/or R′, or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, thepreferred HLB values of such emulsifiers can also be lower or higherthan the indicated values.

It may be advantageous to select the fatty alcohol ethoxylates fromethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols and cetyl stearyl alcohols(cetearyl alcohols). Especially preferred fatty alcohol ethoxylatesinclude:

polyethylene glycol(13)stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethyleneglycol(14)stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol(15)stearylether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol(16)stearyl ether (steareth-16),polyethylene glycol(17)stearyl ether (steareth-17), polyethyleneglycol(18)stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethylene glycol(19)stearylether (steareth-19), polyethylene glycol(20)stearyl ether (steareth-20),

polyethylene glycol(12)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethyleneglycol(13)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethyleneglycol(14)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethyleneglycol(15)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethyleneglycol(16)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-16), polyethyleneglycol(17)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethyleneglycol(18)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethyleneglycol(19)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethyleneglycol(20)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20);

polyethylene glycol(13)cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethyleneglycol(14)cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol(15)cetyl ether(ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol(16)cetyl ether (ceteth-16),polyethylene glycol(17)cetyl ether (ceteth-17), polyethyleneglycol(18)cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol(19)cetyl ether(ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol(20)cetyl ether (ceteth-20);

polyethylene glycol (13)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethyleneglycol (14)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol(15)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16)isocetylether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17)isocetyl ether(isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18),polyethylene glycol(19)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethyleneglycol(20)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20);

polyethylene glycol(12)oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethyleneglycol(13)oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol(14)oleyl ether(oleth-14), polyethylene glycol(15)oleyl ether (oleth-15);

polyethylene glycol(12)lauryl ether (laureth-12), polyethyleneglycol(12)isolauryl ether (isolaureth-12);

polyethylene glycol(13)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethyleneglycol(14)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethyleneglycol(15)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethyleneglycol(16)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethyleneglycol(17)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-17), polyethyleneglycol(18)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethyleneglycol(19)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-19), polyethyleneglycol(20)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-20).

It may also be advantageous to select the fatty acid ethoxylates fromthe following group:

polyethylene glycol(20) stearate, polyethylene glycol(21) stearate,polyethylene glycol(22) stearate, polyethylene glycol(23) stearate,polyethylene glycol(24) stearate, polyethylene glycol(25) stearate;

polyethylene glycol(12)isostearate, polyethylene glycol(13)isostearate,polyethylene glycol (14)isostea rate, polyethyleneglycol(15)isostearate, polyethylene glycol(16)isostearate, polyethyleneglycol(17)isostearate, polyethylene glycol(18)isostearate, polyethyleneglycol(19)isostearate, polyethylene glycol(20)isostearate, polyethyleneglycol(21)isostearate, polyethylene glycol(22)isostearate, polyethyleneglycol(23)isostearate, polyethylene glycol(24)isostearate, polyethyleneglycol(25) isostearate;

polyethylene glycol(12)oleate, polyethylene glycol(13)oleate,polyethylene glycol(14)oleate, polyethylene glycol(15)oleate,polyethylene glycol(16)oleate, polyethylene glycol(17)oleate,polyethylene glycol(18)oleate, polyethylene glycol(19) oleate,polyethylene glycol(20)oleate.

Sodium laureth-11-carboxylate may advantageously be used as anethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid salt.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate may advantageously be used as an alkyl ethersulfate.

Polyethylene glycol(30)cholesteryl ether may advantageously be used asan ethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Polyethylene glycol(25)soyasterolhas also proven advantageous.

Polyethylene glycol(60) evening primrose glycerides may advantageouslybe used as ethoxylated triglycerides.

It may also be advantageous to select the fatty acid esters ofpolyethylene glycol glycerol from polyethylene glycol(20)glyceryllaurate, polyethylene glycol(21)glyceryl laurate, polyethyleneglycol(22)glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol(23)glyceryl laurate,polyethylene glycol(6)glyceryl caprate/caprinate, polyethyleneglycol(20)glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol(20)glyceryl isostearate,and polyethylene glycol(18)glyceryl oleate/cocoate.

It may likewise be advantageous to select the sorbitan esters frompolyethylene glycol(20)sorbitan monolaurate, polyethyleneglycol(20)sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol(20)sorbitanmonoisostearate, polyethylene glycol(20)sorbitan monopalmitate, andpolyethylene glycol(20)sorbitan monooleate.

It may also be advantageous to use as W/O emulsifiers fatty alcoholshaving from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters ofsaturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranchedalkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of from about 8 to about24, in particular from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms, diglycerolesters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranchedalkane-carboxylic acids having a chain length of from about 8 to about24, in particular from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms, monoglycerolethers of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranchedalcohols having a chain length of from about 8 to about 24, inparticular from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms, diglycerol ethers ofsaturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols havinga chain length of from about 8 to about 24, in particular from about 12to about 18 carbon atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and/orunsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having achain length of from about 8 to about 24, in particular from about 12 toabout 18 carbon atoms, as well as sorbitan esters of saturated and/orunsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having achain length of from about 8 to about 24, in particular from about 12 toabout 18 carbon atoms.

Non-limiting examples of particularly advantageous W/O emulsifiersinclude glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glycerylmonomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglycerylmonoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycolmonoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycolmonolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitanmonocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetylalcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenylalcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol(2)stearylether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate,glyceryl monocaprylate.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PRESENT INVENTION

The particulars shown herein are by way of example and for purposes ofillustrative discussion of the embodiments of the present invention onlyand are presented in the cause of providing what is believed to be themost useful and readily understood description of the principles andconceptual aspects of the present invention. In this regard, no attemptis made to show structural details of the present invention in moredetail than is necessary for the fundamental understanding of thepresent invention, the description making apparent to those skilled inthe art how the several forms of the present invention may be embodiedin practice. Unless stated otherwise, all amounts, fractions andpercentages given are based on the weight and the total amount or on thetotal weight of the preparations. EXAMPLE 1 O/W Night Cream % by weightGlyceryl stearate citrate 2 Shea butter 2 Stearyl alcohol 2 Cetylalcohol 2 Hydrogenated coco glycerides 2 Caprylic acid/capric acidtriglyceride 2 Ethylhexyl cocoate ester 2 Cyclomethicone 3 Dicaprylylether 2 Tocopherylacetate 1 Sodium ascorbylphosphate 0.1 Licochalcone A0.01 Retinyl palmitate 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.6 p-Hydroxybenzoic acidalkyl ester (paraben) 0.6 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.5 Polyacrylic acid(Carbomer) 0.1 EDTA 0.2 Glycerin 10 Water-soluble and/or oil-solubledyes 0.05 Fillers/additives (SiO₂, BHT) 0.2 Perfume q.s. Water ad 100

EXAMPLE 2 Cream % by weight Glyceryl stearate, self-emulsifying 5Stearyl alcohol 1 Shea butter 1 C₁₂₋₁₅ Alkyl benzoate 3 Caprylicacid/capric acid triglycerides 2 Mineral oil 1 Dicaprylyl carbonate 3Ethylhexyl cyanodiphenylacrylate (octocrylene) 5 Ethylhexyl triazone 1Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol-methoxyphenyl triazine 1 Citric acid, sodiumsalt 0.1 Licochalcone A 0.05 Phenoxyethanol 0.6 p-Hydroxybenzoic acidalkyl ester (paraben) 0.3 Hexamidine diisethionate 0.041,3-Dimethylol-5,5-dimethyl-hydantoin(DMDM hydantoin) 0.1 EDTA 0.2Ethanol (denaturated) 2 Ammoniumacryloyldimethyltaurate/vinylpyrrolidone0.5 copolymers Glycerin 10 Butyleneglycol 1 Additives (distarchphosphate, SiO₂, BHT) 1 Perfume q.s. Water ad 100

EXAMPLE 3 Sunscreen Cream % by weight Glyceryl stearate 3PEG-40-stearate 1 Cetearyl alcohol 3 Shea butter 2 C₁₂₋₁₅ Alkyl benzoate2 Coco glycerides 2 Octyldodecanol 3 Beeswax 1 Cholesterol 0.4Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 2 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 2 Ubiquinone (Q 10) 0.03 Sodiumascorbylphosphate 0.1 Tocopheryl acetate 1 Licochalcone A 0.1Methylpropanediol 1 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester(paraben) 0.2 Diazolidinylurea 0.1 Carbomer 0.1 Carrageenan 0.1 Glycerin7 Additives (BHT, iminodisuccinate) 0.4 Perfume q.s. Water ad 100

EXAMPLE 4 Cream % by weight Glyceryl stearate 1 Stearic acid 3 Stearylalcohol 2 Cetyl alcohol 2 C₁₂₋₁₅ Alkyl benzoate 2 Caprylic acid/capricacid triglycerides 2 Macadamia oil 1 Myristylmyristates 2 Dimethicone 2Hydrogenated coco glycerides 1 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.5 Tocopheryl acetate1 Licochalcone A 0.01 Creatine 0.1 Ubiquinone (Q10) 0.03 Phenoxyethanol0.4 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (paraben) 0.3Iodopropynylbutylcarbamate 0.02 Cyclodextrin 0.3 Iminodisuccinate 0.2Carbomer 0.3 Glycerin 5 Butylene glycol 1 Methylpropanediol 1 Additives(SiO₂, talc) 0.5 Perfume q.s. Water ad 100

EXAMPLE 5 After Sun Gel % by weight Cetyl alcohol 2 Shea butter 1Caprylic acid/capric acid triglyceride 2 Octyldodecanol 1 Dicaprylylcarbonate 5 Dimethicone 2 Polydecene 2 Methyl palmitate 3 Licochalcone A0.02 Sodium ascorbylphosphate 0.05 Iminodisuccinate 0.2 EthanolPhenoxyethanol 0.3 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (paraben) 0.4Alkylacrylate crosspolymer 0.2 Glycerin 5 Perfume q.s. Water ad 100

EXAMPLE 6 After Shave Gel % by weight Triceteareth-4-phosphate 0.5Cyclomethicone 2.0 Octyldodecanol 1.0 Dicaprylyl carbonate 3.0 Methylpalmitate 2.0 Licochalcone A 0.02 Allantoin 0.1 Tocopheryl acetate 0.5Iminodisuccinate 0.2 Ethanol 5.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 p-Hydroxybenzoicacid alkyl ester (paraben) 0.4 Alkylacrylate crosspolymer 0.3 Distarchphosphate 1.0 Butylene glycol 3.0 Iminodisuccinate 0.2 Glycerin 4.0Perfume q.s. Water ad 100

EXAMPLE 7 O/W Cream % by weight Glyceryl stearate 2.5 PEG-40-stearate 1Cetearyl alcohol 2 Hydrogenated coco glycerides 1 Myristyl myristate 2C₁₂₋₁₅ Alkyl benzoate 4 Caprylic acid/capric acid triglycerides 2Octyldodecanol 1 Dicaprylyl carbonate 3 Ethylhexyl cyanodiphenylacrylate(octocrylene) 5 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (oxybenzone) 3Ubiquinone (Q10) 0.03 Licochalcone A 0.005 alpha-Glucosylrutin 0.1Ceramide III 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester(paraben) 0.4 Iodopropynylbutylcarbamate 0.05 2-Ethylhexylglycerin 0.5Polyacrylic acid (Carbomer) 0.2 Nylon microparticles 1 Glycerin 10Additives (distarch phosphate, EDTA, BHT) 0.5 Perfume q.s. Water ad 100

EXAMPLE 8 O/W cream % by weight Polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate3 Cetyl alcohol 3 C₁₂₋₁₅ Alkyl benzoate 2 Butylene glycoldicaprylate/dicaprate 2 Caprylic acid/capric acid triglycerides 2Hydrogenated polydecene 1 Dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone) 1 Isodecylneopentanoate 4 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol-methoxyphenyltriazine 1Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5 Licochalcone A 0.005 Sodiumascorbylphosphate 0.1 EDTA 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.4Iodopropynylbutylcarbamate 0.05 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester(paraben) 0.4 Ethanol denaturated 2 Carbomer 0.2 Glycerin 5 Additives(distarch phosphate, talc, BHT) 0.2 Perfume q.s. Water ad 100

EXAMPLE 9 O/W Cream % by weight Cetearyl glucoside 2 Myristyl myristate1 Stearyl alcohol 4 C₁₂₋₁₅ Alkyl benzoate 2 Caprylic acid/capric acidtriglycerides 3 Hydrogenated polydecene 1 Dicaprylyl carbonate 3Polydecene 4 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 3 Ethylhexylcyanodiphenylacrylate (octocrylene) 3 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 2Licochalcone A 0.01 Ubiquinone (Q10) 0.1 Tocopheryl acetate 1 TrisodiumEDTA 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (paraben)0.4 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.4 Xanthan gum 0.1 Carrageenan 0.1 Aluminumstarch octenylsuccinates 1 Glycerin 6 Butylene glycol 2 Additives (talc,BHT, dye) 1 Perfume q.s. Water ad 100

EXAMPLE 10 W/O Cream % by weight Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate 5.0Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate 2.5 Cetearyl alcohol 2 Cetylalcohol 2 C₁₂₋₁₅ Alkyl benzoate 8 Caprylic acid/capric acidtriglycerides 6 Octyldodecanol 5 Octamethyltetrasiloxane(cyclomethicone) 2 Lactic acid 5 Citric acid sodium salt 0.5 Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 1 Ethylhexyl triazone 1 Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate 5 Licochalcone A 0.001 Campesterol 0.01 Retinylpalmitate 0.05 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester(paraben) 0.1 Glycerin 7 Fillers (EDTA, aluminum stearate, BHT) 0.6Perfume q.s. Water ad 100

EXAMPLE 11 Microemulsion % by weight Lecithin 1.8 PEG-50 hydrogenatedcastor oil isostearate 5.2 Dicaprylyl ether 7.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.5p-Hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl ester (paraben) 0.1 Diazolidinylurea 0.22-Ethylhexylglycerin 0.5 Tricontayl PVP 0.3 Licochalcone A 0.01β-Sitosterol 0.001 Glycerin 7 Butylene glycol 3 Additives (talc, BHT,EDTA) 0.5 Perfume q.s. Water ad 100

EXAMPLE 12 Pickering Emulsion % by weight Microcrystalline wax 4.5Carnauba wax 1.5 Candelilla wax 4.0 Lanolin oil 4.0 Bis-diglycerylpolyacyladipate-2 3.5 Dimethicone 1.0 Isopropyl palmitate 3.5Triisostearin 3.0 Myristyl lactate 4.0 Jojoba oil 2.0 Hydrogenatedpolydecene 2.5 Octyldodecanol 2.5 Licochalcone A 0.01 Phenoxyethanol 0.3Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 2 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 0.5Micronized titanium dioxide (Eusolex T 2000) 2.0 Titanium dioxide CI77891 4.0 Iron oxide CI 77491, 77492, 77499 3.2 D&C Red 7 0.6 Tocopherylacetate 1.0 Xylitol 2.0 EDTA 0.2 Glycerin 5.0 Preservatives, BHT,perfume, aroma q.s. Water 30.0 Castor oil ad 100

EXAMPLE 13 W/O Care Stick % by weight Caprylic acid/capric acidtriglycerides 8 Octyldodecanol 7 Paraffin oil 2 Pentaerythrityltetraisostearate 2 C₁₂₋₁₅ Alkyl benzoate 2 Jojoba oil 2 PEG-45/dodecylglycol copolymer 3 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2.5 Sucrose distearate0.5 Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 9 Cetyl palmitate 2.5 C₁₆₋₃₆ Alkylstearates 14 Carnauba wax 1.5 Beeswax 0.5 Ethylhexylcyanodiphenylacrylate (octocrylene) 2 Licochalcone A 0.01 Phenoxyethanol0.2 Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI) 2 PTFE 2.5 Pearlescent pigments 3Rokonsal S1 0.4 Glycerin 5 Perfume, BHT, neutralizing agents q.s. Waterad 100

EXAMPLE 14 W/O Concealer Stick % by weight Caprylic acid/capric acidtriglycerides 5 Octyldodecanol 5 Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 4Dimethicone 0.5 PEG-45/dodecyl glycol copolymer 3.5 Bis-diglycerylpolyacyladipate-2 2 C₁₆₋₃₆ Alkyl stearate 1 C₂₀₋₄₀ Alkyl stearate 8Carnauba wax 1.5 PVP/eicosene copolymer 1 Micronized titanium dioxide 2Octyl methoxycinnamate 2 Licochalcone A 0.02 Phenoxyethanol 0.4β-Sitosterol 0.01 Nylon-12 3 Lauroyl lysine 0.5 PMMA 6 Titanium dioxidecoated with Al₂O₃ 7 Iron oxides 4 Ultramarine 0.5 Germall II 0.25Glycerin 2 Perfume, BHT, neutralizing agents q.s. Water ad 100

EXAMPLE 15 W/O Foundation Stick % by weight Caprylic acid/capric acidtriglycerides 5 Octyldodecanol 5 Dicaprylyl carbonate 3 Dicaprylyl ether2 Dimethicone 0.5 PEG-45/dodecyl glycol copolymer 2Polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate 1.5 C₁₆₋₃₆ Alkyl stearate 2 C₂₀₋₄₀ Alkylstearate 8 Licochalcone A 0.002 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 β-Sitosterol 0.02Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI) 3 Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Tospearl) 0.5PMMA 3 Titanium dioxide coated with Al₂O₃ 6 Iron oxides 4 Ultramarine0.6 Glycerin 10 Perfume, BHT, neutralizing agents q.s. Water ad 100

EXAMPLE 16 W/O Sunscreen Stick % by weight Caprylic acid/capric acidtriglycerides 8 Octyldodecanol 8 Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 8Jojoba oil 1 Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate 2 PEG-30di-polyhydroxystearate 2.5 C₁₆₋₃₆ Alkyl stearate 1 C₂₀₋₄₀ Alkyl stearate9 PVP/eicosene copolymer 1 Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1 Micronizedtitanium dioxide 4 Ethylhexyl cyanodiphenylacrylate (octocrylene) 3.6Octyl methoxycinnamate 3.6 Licochalcone A 0.001 Phenoxyethanol 0.4β-Sitosterol 0.02 Boron nitride 3 Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Tospearl) 1Silica LDP 1 Glydant plus 0.3 Glycerin 5 Perfume, BHT, neutralizingagents q.s. Water ad 100

It is noted that the foregoing examples have been provided merely forthe purpose of explanation and are in no way to be construed as limitingof the present invention. While the present invention has been describedwith reference to an exemplary embodiment, it is understood that thewords which have been used herein are words of description andillustration, rather than words of limitation. Changes may be made,within the purview of the appended claims, as presently stated and asamended, without departing from the scope and spirit of the presentinvention in its aspects. Although the present invention has beendescribed herein with reference to particular means, materials andembodiments, the present invention is not intended to be limited to theparticulars disclosed herein; rather, the present invention extends toall functionally equivalent structures, methods and uses, such as arewithin the scope of the appended claims.

1. A method for the prophylaxis or treatment of an inflammatory skincondition, wherein the method comprises applying to skin an effectiveamount of a preparation which comprises an active substance combinationcomprising (a) at least one of licochalcone A and an extract of radixglycyrrhizae inflatae that comprises licochalcone A, (b) phenoxyethanol,and (c) optionally, glycerin.
 2. The method of claim 1, wherein thepreparation comprises a weight ratio (A:B:C) which is a:b:c, where a, band c independently of one another represent rational numbers of fromabout 0.001 to about 200, and A represents licochalcone A B representsphenoxyethanol C represents glycerin.
 3. The method of claim 2, whereina, b and c independently of one another represent rational numbers of upto about
 10. 4. The method of claim 2, wherein a weight ratio(B+C)/(A*100) is from about 0.1 to about 5,000.
 5. The method of claim3, wherein a weight ratio (B+C)/(A*100) is from about 0.5 to about1,000.
 6. The method of claim 1, wherein the preparation comprises fromabout 0.0005% to about 50% by weight of the active substancecombination.
 7. The method of claim 2, wherein the preparation comprisesfrom about 0.01% to about 20% by weight of the active substancecombination.
 8. The method of claim 6, wherein the preparation comprisesfrom about 0.0001% to about 5% by weight of licochalcone A.
 9. Themethod of claim 2, wherein the preparation comprises from about 0.005%to about 0.5% by weight of licochalcone A.
 10. The method of claim 6,wherein the preparation comprises from about 0.001% to about 5% byweight of phenoxyethanol.
 11. The method of claim 9, wherein thepreparation comprises from about 0.1% to about 0.5% by weight ofphenoxyethanol.
 12. The method of claim 6, wherein the preparationcomprises from about 0.001% to about 30% by weight of glycerin.
 13. Themethod of claim 10, wherein the preparation comprises from about 1 % toabout 8% by weight of glycerin.
 14. The method of claim 6, wherein thepreparation further comprises from about 0.001% to about 20% by weightof one or more polyols.
 15. The method of claim 1, wherein thepreparation comprises an emulsion.
 16. The method of claim 1, whereinthe method comprises the prophylaxis or treatment of atopic eczema. 17.A method for protecting dry and sensitive skin, wherein the methodcomprises applying to at least a part of the skin an effective amount ofa preparation which comprises an active substance combination comprising(a) at least one of licochalcone A and an extract of radix glycyrrhizaeinflatae that comprises licochalcone A, (b) phenoxyethanol, and (c)optionally, glycerin.
 18. The method of claim 17, wherein thepreparation comprises a weight ratio (A:B:C) which is a:b:c, where a, band c independently of one another represent rational numbers of fromabout 0.001 to about 200, and A represents licochalcone A B representsphenoxyethanol C represents glycerin.
 19. The method of claim 18,wherein a, b and c independently of one another represent rationalnumbers of up to about
 10. 20. The method of claim 18, wherein a weightratio (B+C)/(A*100) is from about 0.1 to about 5,000.
 21. The method ofclaim 19, wherein a weight ratio (B+C)/(A*100) is from about 0.5 toabout 1,000.
 22. The method of claim 17, wherein the preparationcomprises from about 0.0005% to about 50% by weight of the activesubstance combination.
 23. The method of claim 18, wherein thepreparation comprises from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight of theactive substance combination.
 24. The method of claim 22, wherein thepreparation comprises from about 0.0001% to about 5% by weight oflicochalcone A.
 25. The method of claim 23, wherein the preparationcomprises from about 0.005% to about 0.5% by weight of licochalcone A.26. The method of claim 22, wherein the preparation comprises from about0.001% to about 5% by weight of phenoxyethanol.
 27. The method of claim25, wherein the preparation comprises from about 0.1% to about 0.5% byweight of phenoxyethanol.
 28. The method of claim 22, wherein thepreparation comprises from about 0.001% to about 30% by weight ofglycerin.
 29. The method of claim 26, wherein the preparation comprisesfrom about 1% to about 8% by weight of glycerin.
 30. The method of claim22, wherein the preparation further comprises from about 0.001% to about20% by weight of one or more polyols.
 31. The method of claim 17,wherein the preparation comprises an emulsion.